When does unhealthy hair begin?

Updated: Jul 6, 2019

When there is a lack of basic hair care knowledge


1. Proper cleansing - if it ain't squeaky clean...it ain't clean?

You might as well pull out a pole cause you just started strippin'. It was the norm back in the day to rinse your hair after a shampoo until it was squeaky clean. WE WERE DOIN' THE THING! Unlike today, we were replenishing the moisture in our hair and scalp because of products like good ol' DAX, BERGAMOT, ULTRA SHEEN, ROYAL CROWN, etc. The problem isn't only squeaky clean hair, it's what happens after it's squeak and clean. Are you re-moisturizing your hair and scalp? I know, I know, nobody wants to use grease anymore, but there are more ways to re-moisturize. Using protein-based oils like grape-seed, jojoba, and coconut oil mixed with another oil of your preference will re-moisturize your hair. If you're shampooing your hair, here is a tip: only cleanse your hair when there is a buildup of oil, sweat, or dandruff. Cleansing isn't only shampooing, because you can shampoo your hair too much, which will cause it to become brittle. We need to become familiar with co-washing. Co-washing is using conditioners or a combination of extracts to remove oil, sweat, and dandruff; which prevents drying of the hair and scalp. There are store products labeled 'co-wash' as well as natural ways of co-washing: https://www.bustle.com/articles/159809-4-cleansing-conditioner-recipes-you-can-make-at-home-for-a-clean-hydrated-scalp


2. Combing/Brushing - at least 100 strokes of brushing per day adds fullness and body

Improper or excessive combing and brushing causes cuticle damage and a split end...and another and another. Most of us remember some of the old shows where a woman would brush her hair over and over right before she went to bed. The claim was that it promotes fullness and growth. In reality, all that brushing breaks down the cuticle (outer protective layer) of the hair strand and once that outer layer is damaged, there is a loss of protection and splitting throughout the hair shaft begins (refer to image at bottom). Combing and brushing should be to detangle hair and remove any unwanted product buildup, dust, and dandruff. Do not brush chemically treated hair when wet because the hair is vulnerable and will break off easily. The proper way to comb and brush hair is like Drake said, "started from the bottom, now we're here" meaning, we start at the bottom of the strand and work our way up to the scalp.


3. Heat Styling - slow hot passes guarantees perfectly straight hair

Heating your styling irons is like pre-heating an oven. 225-325 degrees will bake ya cake..hot irons set at 450 be like, “This girl is on FIRE." The temperature of your styling irons would depend on the texture and density of your hair. If you have fine to medium textured hair, you can successfully style your hair with a temperature setting of 225-250, medium to thick textured hair 250-300, and coarse hair 300-325. Heat styling should be just that...styling. Excessive heat not only dries the hair, but FRIES the hair so slow hot passes not only will guarantee perfectly straight hair, but also dry, brittle hair. With the proper heat setting, you can straighten a section of hair with 1 to 2 passes. We are not trying to purify gold, it is not necessary to count to 700 while straightening one section of hair. Before applying your flat or curling iron to hair, release the initial heat onto a towel. Considering, by habit, most of us start styling in the same section, that section breaks off leaving us "bewondering." We "bewondering" why this one section has broken off.


Here are some ways that split ends occur and their causes:

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